Disclaimer:

Disclaimer: The copyright is strictly for the text of this blog and not the pictures. As you can read in my bio, the information and views expressed within this blog are based on my lifetime of experience with animals. Other opinions can and do exist. Some have merit, some do not.

Sunday, December 15, 2013

Catching a Behavior for Training



When there is a command or act that you wish your companion to learn, it is best to "catch" that behavior when the dog accidentally displays it.  As an example, a dog needs to learn the sit command, the old fashioned way of teaching this was to place the dog into position, or push down on the hind end, then praise when they are sitting.  Newer methods have resulted in faster learning and more consistency. 

First step is to find out if a pet is food or toy or praise motivated.  Once it has been established which is the strongest motivator, let's use food as an example, the food/treat is withheld until the dog performs the action.   When using food as a motivator it is strongly recommended that you withhold the morning feed until the ten minute training session is finished.  This makes the dog more eager to comply.  Another motivator is to isolate the dog for about an hour either in a room or crate where they can not touch you.  Again, this motivates the training because the pet is eager to be with you again.

Begin the lesson with the dog leashed, inside the house, or inside some place (preferably climate controlled) where there are no outside distractions, such as barking dogs, running cats, birds, or the like.  In this example, the companion is motivated by food and has been isolated for about an hour and not feed the morning meal yet (or afternoon meal if training at that time of day).   Never attempt any kind of training if you are not in a relaxed, calm, peaceful mood otherwise that tension transmits directly to the dog. 

Stand quietly with your pup, leash in hand, and allow them to explore the area you are in.  After they get bored pull out your bag of treats.  I recommend ones that are easy to break into small pieces and that smell good.  Something like soft chicken strips, tiny broken up pieces of beggin strips, or hot dogs cut into small wheel like sections.  Allow the dog a quick sniff of the contents then wait.  In your mind, decide ahead of time on a few hand signals to use to associate with each command.
As the dog becomes frustrated at not getting the treats it will begin to "offer" you various normal positions such as sitting, laying down, or even barking.  Try to pick a one word command to go with each action the dog offers. (Saying "lay down" and/ or "get down" just confuse the dog)

Let's say the dog barks at you, be ready with the treat in hand, depending upon the sensitivity of your particular dog, either use a great deal of enthusiasm or, for shy dogs, speak calmly and quietly saying the one word  "Yes" and give the treat.   During one ten minute training session the dog may offer many behaviors.  Each time repeat only the "Yes" and treat. 

The next training session works on associating the one word command and a hand signal when the dog offers the behavior.  For example, dog barks, you say "Yes Speak" , making a hand signal gesture with your right hand, then treat.  This combination of words, hand signal and treating should go very quickly so the animal comprehends it is all relates to the one behavior.   If the dog sits, say "Yes Sit", hand signal with right hand, treat.   The reason I say use only the right hand is so as not to confuse the dog.  If you are left handed do all your hand signals with that hand.  Switching hands usually creates confusion.  Some examples of  hand signals used for sit: palm open facing downwards, move hand down a bit then make a smooth sweet upward as you turn your palm to face the sky.  Down command, use an open palm facing opposite shoulder of the hand you have chosen to use, sweep downward and back to straight arm position.  Speak, hand faces towards dog, all four fingers straight and thumb underneath, make an opening and closing motion. 

This method of "catching" behaviors encourages your dog to "think" and work out how to get the treats, toys, or praise that you are withholding.  Some dogs will even offer playing dead, play bowing (two front paws to elbows down on floor, hind end raised) begging, or "giving five", fetching and dropping their toys at your feet.   Be patient, and reward even small efforts that look like they are moving in the correct direction.  The dog will learn the hand signal far faster than the verbal command.  Soon your companion will be looking like a genius to all your friends and family.  


                                                                     © PawEarFull Legacys
















Saturday, November 9, 2013

I Got Your Six

I got your six is a terminology commonly used by the military to mean someone is watching your back.  The latest and greatest that dogs are offering to returning soldiers is a constant companion who is always looking out for them.  The dogs used in the program called K9s for  warriors are rescued from shelters and pounds across the country.  In return the rescued pets work diligently to "save" their new handlers. 

Once a potential dog is located, its temperament , energy level and disposition are accessed and  matched with a warrior in need.  The team is set up and undergoes training together, from the beginning,  thus creating an inseparable bond.   The selected soldiers suffer from PTSD (Post Traumatic Stress Disorder) and often have a hard time transitioning into civilian life.  Plagued with taking daily medications, nightmares and an overly acute sense of situational awareness, performing  daily tasks such as shopping, going to restaurants, banking or even using an ATM machine becomes a battle field. 

The new canine partner is taught to physically place themselves between the handler and another person. Whether the stranger approaches from the front or the rear, the dog will indicate to the handler, by barking or nudging, thus making them aware of the other person.  The dog then moves between the handler and the new person creating a physical, visual and mental barrier.  Often lay people are not aware of stepping into the personal space of another thus the use of this  training allows the dog to keep an approaching person at a respectable distance from the handler.  Knowing the dog is watching allows the handler to be more relaxed.

The four footed second set of eyes and ears allows the soldier to feel "safe".  Some soldiers even report a reduction in the need for medication, as well as a new key to help them interact with the community they are reintegrating themselves into. 

The dogs wear the typical back pack type of vest (although not required) which reads "Do Not Pet" in bold letters.   The teams train in every day situations such as shopping, eating, and driving.  The dogs are afforded the same abilities as other service animals and there is no specific breed type chosen.
Our canine companions serve us unquestioningly for little more than basic essentials and petting.  Offering these incredible dogs to our soldiers provides them with a much needed means of becoming a vital part of the community when they return from battle. 


                                                                 © PawEarFull Legacys

Monday, November 4, 2013

Safety During Hunting Season

 Throughout most of the united states there are times when the average citizen is allowed to purchase a permit and hunt various animals.  Some of these permits allow hunting with a gun, a bow, and some trapping.   However, the average "Joe" does not always follow the rules and may not have a permit, permission to hunt on specific lands, or even a general knowledge and skill with the type of weapon they carry. 

Some people hunt out of season (when it is not allowed by law to hunt specific animals for varied reasons such as raising young), from open car windows, or even trespass upon property clearly labeled "No Hunting".   There is simply no way to predict what the desperate law breaker will be doing.  Thus it is important to do everything to ensure the safety of yourself and your animal. 

Many types of dogs are used for hunting.  Some point out the game, others retrieve, some hunt in packs, others with just their owners.   All dogs taken into the woods or sheltered areas at any time of the year can be the unlucky one when an overeager hunter shoots them.   It is important to be prepared every time you enter a forest, field, or water area for that one time someone aims incorrectly. 
 
 Arm yourself with some common sense tools.   An orange or brilliant yellow/green vest on yourself as well as your dog is one good measure to use. Another is a reflective collar.  They are made in orange, green, red and yellow and can be interchanged.  Most are a wide band of reflective material (waterproof)  that goes around the dogs neck and have a stretchy piece of elastic which fits over the head.  They are not meant to carry tags on them and the various colors are best used in times of low light, night or foggy conditions.   Farm stores, WalMarts and online pet supply warehouses are some of the places to obtain these products.

Another tool is a flashing light that can be attached to you and/or your dogs vest/collar.   If finding one of these is challenging, try looking in the local store where bikes are sold.  They offer a reflective strobe that is placed on a bike but can easily be fitted to yourself or your dog.  They come in both red and white varieties and flash at various speeds that  the owner can set.  A cow bell, placed on your pets collar is another handy way to let people know you are in the area as well as the ability to locate your dog from hearing versus sight.

Snares and various traps left in isolated areas or water ways are another means a person utilizes to hunt.  There is little to nothing you can do to prevent your companion from being caught in one.  All that is left to do is to locate them, free them if possible, and provide basic first aid until a vet can be found.   Often a loose dog will fall prey to a snare or trap and has little chance of survival without human intervention. 

For the person who is walking their dog for exercise it is wise to use these tools all the time, even in city settings to alert drivers to your presence.   For the hunting dog within a group, it is less vital,  as the dogs tend to function within a pack formation leaving it hard to not recognize them as dogs versus game.  Dogs hunted singularly, such as for retrieval of downed game, would still benefit from the above mentioned items. 

Some hunters  are of the opinion that the game will see the dog who wears a reflective vest and flee. Hence, they only put camouflage on themselves and their dogs.  It is my belief that not many canines can sneak up on a large game animals (deer, moose, elk) and the legality of hunting big game with dogs is very limited.
 
No matter the time of year always assume some hunting may be taking place. Certain animals, such as the coyote, is allowed to be shot year round in some states.  Complacency is never an option when life is at stake.  It is foolish thinking that a hunter will not shoot, kill, or wound you or your dog. 

  Remember people do not always follow the laws and even when they do accidents happen.  While your pet is not the size of a deer a small dog may be about the size of a rabbit and an overeager  hunter may shoot first, look later, and then it is nearly always too late. 


 As you walk in any undeveloped area, always keep in mind you and your pet can be targets.  The use of some common sense, low cost materials may keep you safe and happy as you hike, bike, or walk in our nations vast wilderness.



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