Post to Anyone Looking for More Detail About Obtaining a Service Dog

This post is in answer to a letter I received from a man who has PTSD (post traumatic stress disorder).   He served in the navy and wanted to know more details on how to obtain a service dog.
This is the answer I have made for him and anyone else out there who is interested in more information about the ins and outs of obtaining an animal.   If anyone else needs something specific please leave me an email at pawearfulllegacys@gmail.com.
Thank you and God Bless you all!

Since I don't know how much information you have already obtained regarding owning a service dog I will start at the basic beginnings.  Please take note of the very important wording below in the "ADA defines a service animal".  This will be helpful to you when you get your dog.  Because of the nature of having a mental disability ( I speak from experience as I have bi polar and have owned and trained service dogs for myself over the years that came out of pounds, rescues, the newspaper etc and were NEVER certified) the people you encounter on a daily basis shopping , banking, eating out, all see you as "normal"   When a disability can not be seen by others they make a snap judgement.  This is also true because many , many people do not want a dog in where they are doing business.   I have had far too many times where I was pulled away from grocery shopping or eating at a restaurant and told the dog has to leave.   It is vital to the welfare of all other people who own a disability dog to stand up to these people.   Your dog does NOT have to have any papers, nor do you have to provide any paperwork on your disability.  Likewise, the dog does NOT have to wear a special collar, tags, vest or any identifying features to tell others it is a service animal.  This is your right!  If you were to offer identification then it would be more likely the next person with a service animal would also have to give out paperwork.   When you enter an establishment, say nothing.  The person who wishes to know is only allowed to ask you one thing by law, "Is this a service animal?"    All you need to respond is "Yes" and go along your way.  Lets say someone was traveling with their service animal and had to stop somewhere they had not planned.  What a pain it would be to have to go into a public restroom and before you can use the facilities , have to put a vest on your dog, grab all the paperwork and then head in.  This is just one example of the reason disabled people need to be allowed this freedom from identification.  

Another freedom is that anyone who is qualified can train your dog.  Even you.  Likewise, you do not have to have a purebred or even a mutt who will cost you thousands of dollars to have trained from one of these facilities.  The benefit of getting a dog already trained is you have the animal set up and ready to go.  However, in the case of PTSD, the handler must train alongside of the dog so that a bond forms.  Once you have your dog, you will find there are many things you wish to teach the dog that will help you in your specific situation.  An example is, lets say you were worried about entering a dark house, you could train your animal to go in and search and return to you when all was clear, or come back and sit in front of there were people inside.  This may not be something that everyone with PTSD has a need for , therefore each dog would not be trained in such a manor.  Dogs are only limited by your own imagination.   The closer relationship you have with your animal the more they will pick up on subtle things that you are feeling.  

 Currently, I have a rescued beagle who is in my foster care.  She shows great signs of being a potential service dog.  An animal has to show you its willingness to be there for you.  I have had many dogs over the years as pets, only a few have been outstanding and made into service animals.   If you decide to look for a mutt or in a rescue organization for a dog and train them yourself let me know and I can help you via email.   Either way, if you have any dog training questions once you get a dog and wish to further its bond or train it to do something the training facility did not offer ask, I have been a dog trainer for the last 25 years and have been very successful with service dogs.

On to the info I mentioned at the beginning of the ADA rules: 

 The Law Relating to Service Dogs

It is important to note that to qualify for the protections and allowances of the Americans with Disabilities Act, both the individual and the canine, must meet specific criteria. In short, an individual must have a disability and a service dog must be specifically trained to meet the needs of that disability.    To be protected by the ADA, one must have a disability or have a relationship or association with an individual with a disability. An individual with a disability is defined by the ADA as a person who has a physical or mental impairment that substantially limits one or more major life activities, a person who has a history or record of such an impairment, or a person who is perceived by others as having such an impairment. The ADA does not specifically name all of the impairments that are covered. (Department of Justice, 2002).    The ADA defines a service animal as any guide dog, signal dog, or other animal individually trained to provide assistance to an individual with a disability. If they meet this definition, animals are considered service animals under the ADA regardless of whether they have been licensed or certified by a state or local government. (Department of Justice, 1996). 

 The Role of Service Dogs

Joan Froling, a trainer and consultant with Sterling Service Dogs, provides a detailed list of tasks for which service dogs are trained to assist those with psychiatric disabilities. A few of the overall tasks include

    Assistance in a Medical Crisis – Service dogs are trained to retrieve medications, beverages and telephones. They can bark for help, answer a door bell, and even dial 911 on special K9 speaker telephones.

    Treatment Related Assistance – These special animals can be trained to deliver messages, remind individuals to take medications as specific times, assist with walking as well as alerting sedated individuals to doorbells, phones or smoke detectors.

    Assistance Coping With Emotional Overload – Service dogs can be taught to prevent others from crowding their owner. They can be taught to recognize a panic attack and nuzzle a distraught owner to help with calming.

    Security Enhancement Tasks – These canines are often trained to check the house for intruders. They can turn on lights and open doors. They can assist with leaving a premises during an emergency.

Legal Rights of Service Animal Owners

If you’re someone who has a service animal and you have been turned away at a public place, you have certain rights under the Americans with Disabilities Act. An individual who is using a service animal has the same rights as a non-disabled individual. The ADA supersedes any local or state law prohibiting service animals in any place that is open to the public.

Service Animal Registry

Having a service animal registered is not required by law. However, there are several service animal registries that will provide owners with a photo ID of the handler and a photo ID of the service animal. These identification cards seem to help stop discriminatory practices of businesses and transportation services.

(Here I will note that in my car I always carried a copy of shot records, up to date as well as on my person I created on my own computer a photo ID.  One for me similar to a drivers license with not as much information.  And one with a picture of the dog then stating it was a service animal and what type of disability I had.   These would only be used in the case of a police officer stopping me on the highway or in a business.  To save the hassle I would present the cards and they would back off.  I did have a run in with the local WalMart here.  I merely told the store manager what the current fine plus court costs was going to average and mentioned I was going to send a letter to the local paper telling everyone they were turning me away and the next time I went there was a big sign on the door "Service animals welcome".  )

Here is the link to getting yourself a kit to carry with you.  http://usdogregistry.org/     If you fly or go on a train these might look more professional and save you some time and hassle.  You can also get a service dog vest for your animal at : http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=service+dog+vests&tag=mh0b-20&index=aps&hvadid=3482491469&ref=pd_sl_8f2sp4whqn_b  ( I have ordered several from this company and what you see is what you get,  a good vest.  Usually I have asked for a patch or sewing somewhere on the vest which says service dog.  Then in larger letter, "Do Not Pet" on both side panels.  )

Filing a Discrimination Complaint

If you’ve been discriminated against because of your service animal, you have a legitimate legal complaint. Discrimination complaints that occurred during air travel can be submitted to:

    Aviation Consumer Protection Division

    Attn: C-75-D

    U.S. Department of Transportation

    400 7th Street, S.W.

    Washington, D.C. 20590

    Email: airconsumer@ost.dot.gov

Discrimination complaints that have occurred in a public area or business should be directed to the following:

    Legal Aid Society

    U.S. Department of Justice

    Division of Civil Rights

    Bar Association

    International Association of Assistance Dog Partners

If you go with a pre-trained service dog, they place will usually require you to give medical information to show your disability.  Some will offer a trained animal, others will ask you to be part of the training.  Either way there should be a time where you go to the facility and spend several days , 24 hours a day , with the dog for you.  This will show you how you get along and does the dog want to be with you as much as you want the dog.  Remember this dog will go everywhere with you.  If you are a high energy person, likes to run, get out, go places, a dog who is quiet and low energy might not be for you.  Conversely, if you prefer to hang out at home and watch tv, the dog should be low energy.  If you do not make the correct match when you go, often they may offer a trade, but then you would be on a waiting list and still have the dog who does not match your needs.  You have to be the one to live with this animal for the rest of its life, so think carefully about how much this breed will shed, can you easily bathe and dry it, does it need to go to a groomer every few weeks which will be extra money, etc.   If you are looking into a purebred from a training program.  Spend some time researching the net on what that breed was trained to do.   Example, a doberman, originally bred to be with a person carrying money, and protect them, highly intelligent,easy care coat, good couch potato as long as it gets walked twice a day.  A border collie or shepherd,bred to herd animals, tons of shedding, both very intelligent, but have a high energy and drive, hard for them to sit still.  Both will create their own "jobs" if you do not keep them mentally stimulated all the time. 

I have had two lab mixes, one half beagle/cocker mix, and two dobermans as my own personal service dogs.  I trained all of them with some help of a professional trainer to guide me.  All lived long lives, were very successful, and died of old age diseases.  I loved them all but I must say the doberman granted me (being a woman) an extra security as the animal looks imposing and carries a stigma of being fierce.  (The tail was docked and ears were cropped to further that look).  They were the fastest to learn and the most intelligent and willing to please of all the others I have had. 

This link is for an all breed training facility: http://goldstar-germanshepherds.com/obtainingservicedog%20.html

This is a link to Delta Society that is a application form, well known all over , might look in your state for a close one.  http://www.midsouththerapydogs.org/MSTD%20Mastercopy%20Workshop.pdf

If I find more links on places to contact I will send them as well.  But this should give you a start. 

Sincerely and God Bless

Christmas Pictures with Santa

Many pet owners think of their companions as "children" and treat them as such.  At Christmas time that may mean a visit to sit on or near Santa at one of the local stores providing pictures to cherish for years.  There are a few things to consider if this is what you chose for your companion animal.

Recall that although Christmas is fun and full of decorations, family, friends and food, it is not fun for your dog.  Most companion animals find this time of year a bit stressful.  Taking into account your pups fears and anxiety a few rules should be followed when you head off to get that revered picture with Santa.

Most of the facilities that offer pictures for pets with Santa are held in pet stores.   Make sure your animal is already fairly well socialized and not a people or animal biter.  Before even leaving the house, feed your pet at least two hours prior to leaving so they have time to digest, drink water, relax and use the potty.  When it is time to go, pick a well fitting collar that will not allow your pet to slip out and a short leash.  If you have a particular collar you wish to use in the photo, bring it along and don't put it on the pet until they are ready for the actual photo.  Pick a short leash, no longer than four feet, and not a retractable.   This will ensure your animal is under your immediate control and supervision at all times.  If there is a place close to the area where the photos will be taken that you can relieve your pet, go there right before you enter the building.  This will give an added advantage to lessen the possibility of the pet voiding while inside the store. 

Once you enter, there is usually a list to get in line until  they call your name.  Other times, you merely have to wait in a line.  The dog will be experiencing a million new scents, sounds and other animals possibly of  different species.  Keep your focus on the dog at the end of the leash.  Far too quickly a skirmish can break out between two unfamiliar animals, possibly ending in tragedy.  It is your responsibility to not  look all around but watch for possible conflicts and observe the level of tension in your dog.  Do not allow strangers to feed treats to your dog or pet him.  The anxiety is high and possibly they  feel protective, territorial, or fearful and snap even if normally they are great with people.  It is likely children  are running around the store and not  supervised by parents, another big thing to watch for as children tend to run up to any strange dog and think they are all friendly. 

Keep  emotions in check and  be as relaxed as possible  to emanate positive feelings through the leash.  When it is  time for the photo, realize that not many dogs see a jolly man with a full beard and hat.  Some dogs key off of certain facial hair or uniforms and Santa will be covered in all the previous animals scent.  Calmly bring the pet up to Santa and let them sniff.  Don't  worry about taking a bit of time and people the waiting.  Once the dog seems calm, place the collar you wish on the animal and leave on the leash, unless your dog is totally voice controlled off leash.  Hand the leash to Santa, or ask him to place it under his boot so it does not show in the photo.  If the dog is small, Santa may hold him on his lap, if it is a larger dog, place them in a sit/stay and slowly back out of the frame.  Some times the photographer  uses a squeaky toy to get the ears of the dogs up, or makes cat meowing noises.  Clue the photographer in or stand behind him and use whatever you know is motivator for your dog.  (Saying cookies, treats, go for a ride, go for a walk are all good ideas)

Remember if your dog is stressed they will  pant, often photos show dogs with their mouth open.  After a couple of shots your session is finished.  Calmly approach the dog, pick up the leash and walk directly out of the store.  (Usually the photos are prepaid).   Take your companion to a spot to relieve themselves and back to the car.  Offer water and maybe a nice walk when  home to completely relax them. 

A bit of time, patience and planning can make the  pictures with Santa a beautiful lasting memory for you, and a safe time for everyone else.  Avoid disaster by keeping in mind  the Christmas holiday only benefits us humans.   Peace, joy and love to all of my readers and their beloved companions this Christmas season .


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Catching a Behavior for Training

When there is a command or act that you wish your companion to learn, it is best to "catch" that behavior when the dog accidentally displays it.  As an example, a dog needs to learn the sit command, the old fashioned way of teaching this was to place the dog into position, or push down on the hind end, then praise when they are sitting.  Newer methods have resulted in faster learning and more consistency. 

First step is to find out if a pet is food or toy or praise motivated.  Once it has been established which is the strongest motivator, let's use food as an example, the food/treat is withheld until the dog performs the action.   When using food as a motivator it is strongly recommended that you withhold the morning feed until the ten minute training session is finished.  This makes the dog more eager to comply.  Another motivator is to isolate the dog for about an hour either in a room or crate where they can not touch you.  Again, this motivates the training because the pet is eager to be with you again.

Begin the lesson with the dog leashed, inside the house, or inside some place (preferably climate controlled) where there are no outside distractions, such as barking dogs, running cats, birds, or the like.  In this example, the companion is motivated by food and has been isolated for about an hour and not feed the morning meal yet (or afternoon meal if training at that time of day).   Never attempt any kind of training if you are not in a relaxed, calm, peaceful mood otherwise that tension transmits directly to the dog. 

Stand quietly with your pup, leash in hand, and allow them to explore the area you are in.  After they get bored pull out your bag of treats.  I recommend ones that are easy to break into small pieces and that smell good.  Something like soft chicken strips, tiny broken up pieces of beggin strips, or hot dogs cut into small wheel like sections.  Allow the dog a quick sniff of the contents then wait.  In your mind, decide ahead of time on a few hand signals to use to associate with each command.
As the dog becomes frustrated at not getting the treats it will begin to "offer" you various normal positions such as sitting, laying down, or even barking.  Try to pick a one word command to go with each action the dog offers. (Saying "lay down" and/ or "get down" just confuse the dog)

Let's say the dog barks at you, be ready with the treat in hand, depending upon the sensitivity of your particular dog, either use a great deal of enthusiasm or, for shy dogs, speak calmly and quietly saying the one word  "Yes" and give the treat.   During one ten minute training session the dog may offer many behaviors.  Each time repeat only the "Yes" and treat. 

The next training session works on associating the one word command and a hand signal when the dog offers the behavior.  For example, dog barks, you say "Yes Speak" , making a hand signal gesture with your right hand, then treat.  This combination of words, hand signal and treating should go very quickly so the animal comprehends it is all relates to the one behavior.   If the dog sits, say "Yes Sit", hand signal with right hand, treat.   The reason I say use only the right hand is so as not to confuse the dog.  If you are left handed do all your hand signals with that hand.  Switching hands usually creates confusion.  Some examples of  hand signals used for sit: palm open facing downwards, move hand down a bit then make a smooth sweet upward as you turn your palm to face the sky.  Down command, use an open palm facing opposite shoulder of the hand you have chosen to use, sweep downward and back to straight arm position.  Speak, hand faces towards dog, all four fingers straight and thumb underneath, make an opening and closing motion. 

This method of "catching" behaviors encourages your dog to "think" and work out how to get the treats, toys, or praise that you are withholding.  Some dogs will even offer playing dead, play bowing (two front paws to elbows down on floor, hind end raised) begging, or "giving five", fetching and dropping their toys at your feet.   Be patient, and reward even small efforts that look like they are moving in the correct direction.  The dog will learn the hand signal far faster than the verbal command.  Soon your companion will be looking like a genius to all your friends and family.  


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I Got Your Six

I got your six is a terminology commonly used by the military to mean someone is watching your back.  The latest and greatest that dogs are offering to returning soldiers is a constant companion who is always looking out for them.  The dogs used in the program called K9s for  warriors are rescued from shelters and pounds across the country.  In return the rescued pets work diligently to "save" their new handlers. 

Once a potential dog is located, its temperament , energy level and disposition are accessed and  matched with a warrior in need.  The team is set up and undergoes training together, from the beginning,  thus creating an inseparable bond.   The selected soldiers suffer from PTSD (Post Traumatic Stress Disorder) and often have a hard time transitioning into civilian life.  Plagued with taking daily medications, nightmares and an overly acute sense of situational awareness, performing  daily tasks such as shopping, going to restaurants, banking or even using an ATM machine becomes a battle field. 

The new canine partner is taught to physically place themselves between the handler and another person. Whether the stranger approaches from the front or the rear, the dog will indicate to the handler, by barking or nudging, thus making them aware of the other person.  The dog then moves between the handler and the new person creating a physical, visual and mental barrier.  Often lay people are not aware of stepping into the personal space of another thus the use of this  training allows the dog to keep an approaching person at a respectable distance from the handler.  Knowing the dog is watching allows the handler to be more relaxed.

The four footed second set of eyes and ears allows the soldier to feel "safe".  Some soldiers even report a reduction in the need for medication, as well as a new key to help them interact with the community they are reintegrating themselves into. 

The dogs wear the typical back pack type of vest (although not required) which reads "Do Not Pet" in bold letters.   The teams train in every day situations such as shopping, eating, and driving.  The dogs are afforded the same abilities as other service animals and there is no specific breed type chosen.
Our canine companions serve us unquestioningly for little more than basic essentials and petting.  Offering these incredible dogs to our soldiers provides them with a much needed means of becoming a vital part of the community when they return from battle. 


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Safety During Hunting Season

 Throughout most of the united states there are times when the average citizen is allowed to purchase a permit and hunt various animals.  Some of these permits allow hunting with a gun, a bow, and some trapping.   However, the average "Joe" does not always follow the rules and may not have a permit, permission to hunt on specific lands, or even a general knowledge and skill with the type of weapon they carry. 

Some people hunt out of season (when it is not allowed by law to hunt specific animals for varied reasons such as raising young), from open car windows, or even trespass upon property clearly labeled "No Hunting".   There is simply no way to predict what the desperate law breaker will be doing.  Thus it is important to do everything to ensure the safety of yourself and your animal. 

Many types of dogs are used for hunting.  Some point out the game, others retrieve, some hunt in packs, others with just their owners.   All dogs taken into the woods or sheltered areas at any time of the year can be the unlucky one when an overeager hunter shoots them.   It is important to be prepared every time you enter a forest, field, or water area for that one time someone aims incorrectly. 
 
 Arm yourself with some common sense tools.   An orange or brilliant yellow/green vest on yourself as well as your dog is one good measure to use. Another is a reflective collar.  They are made in orange, green, red and yellow and can be interchanged.  Most are a wide band of reflective material (waterproof)  that goes around the dogs neck and have a stretchy piece of elastic which fits over the head.  They are not meant to carry tags on them and the various colors are best used in times of low light, night or foggy conditions.   Farm stores, WalMarts and online pet supply warehouses are some of the places to obtain these products.

Another tool is a flashing light that can be attached to you and/or your dogs vest/collar.   If finding one of these is challenging, try looking in the local store where bikes are sold.  They offer a reflective strobe that is placed on a bike but can easily be fitted to yourself or your dog.  They come in both red and white varieties and flash at various speeds that  the owner can set.  A cow bell, placed on your pets collar is another handy way to let people know you are in the area as well as the ability to locate your dog from hearing versus sight.

Snares and various traps left in isolated areas or water ways are another means a person utilizes to hunt.  There is little to nothing you can do to prevent your companion from being caught in one.  All that is left to do is to locate them, free them if possible, and provide basic first aid until a vet can be found.   Often a loose dog will fall prey to a snare or trap and has little chance of survival without human intervention. 

For the person who is walking their dog for exercise it is wise to use these tools all the time, even in city settings to alert drivers to your presence.   For the hunting dog within a group, it is less vital,  as the dogs tend to function within a pack formation leaving it hard to not recognize them as dogs versus game.  Dogs hunted singularly, such as for retrieval of downed game, would still benefit from the above mentioned items. 

Some hunters  are of the opinion that the game will see the dog who wears a reflective vest and flee. Hence, they only put camouflage on themselves and their dogs.  It is my belief that not many canines can sneak up on a large game animals (deer, moose, elk) and the legality of hunting big game with dogs is very limited.
 
No matter the time of year always assume some hunting may be taking place. Certain animals, such as the coyote, is allowed to be shot year round in some states.  Complacency is never an option when life is at stake.  It is foolish thinking that a hunter will not shoot, kill, or wound you or your dog. 

  Remember people do not always follow the laws and even when they do accidents happen.  While your pet is not the size of a deer a small dog may be about the size of a rabbit and an overeager  hunter may shoot first, look later, and then it is nearly always too late. 


 As you walk in any undeveloped area, always keep in mind you and your pet can be targets.  The use of some common sense, low cost materials may keep you safe and happy as you hike, bike, or walk in our nations vast wilderness.



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Marking versus housebreaking

Some people do not understand the difference between a dog who marks his territory versus one that is not yet housebroken.   This misunderstanding often leads to corrections performed in the wrong way on unsuspecting pups.  The above puppy is clearly not housebroken.   Puppies lack the maturity to mark territory until they are about six months of age.   Before six months, nearly all "mistakes" in the home are due to immature development of the bladder, lack of consistency of the owners, and absence of complete comprehension of the rules of house breaking. 

Hitting and putting the nose of an offending dog or puppy into a mess it has made on your floor does nothing in the way of furthering your dogs understanding of a mistake.   Dogs routinely smell and even lick the urine or feces of another dog as a way of gathering information on the sex, health and time elapsed since the mark was created.   It is simply never an option as a method of correction. 

When bringing home a puppy, a person must understand that the bladder is not fully developed to hold the urine for an extended period of time.   Puppies simply go when they feel the need.  It is up to the owner to establish location, time elapsed and careful monitoring of food and water intake. 

Adult dogs, or ones that have begun to lift their leg when urinating (females also mark by squatting then raising one leg a bit), are most likely to participate in  "marking"  territory inside the home.   After a strict routine has been established for the adult dog and they show comprehension of the housebreaking process, only then can one look to correct the mistake of "marking".   Males provide the easiest examples as they lift their leg on an object in order to raise their urine to the highest level. 

This behavior is seen most often when a new dog is brought into an established home (male or female) , the dog is taken to an unfamiliar home, or a house mate comes into season (also urinary tract infections in female evoke this behavior).   Once the act has been identified as "marking" then the owner must decipher the cause.  The correction for a dog in the act of marking is a quick, loud sound to disrupt the behavior then the owner moving the dog physically to the outside and praising when they use that area for urinating.

To help ease the transition of an adult dog who enters a new home, closing off rooms and pairing down the access available is a must.  Some people use crates to put their dog in as they generally do not relieve themselves where they sleep.   Be sure to check on the physical well being of your animal if you find it suddenly starts urinating within the home.  A possible infection, kidney failure or coming into season (for a female) may be the cause.  When health is ruled out, assess if other animals have come into your home or yard that your pet is trying to "mark"over.  

The key to successfully stopping inside "marking" behavior and housebreaking is to never leave the dog unattended.   If you can not keep your eyes on the pet, then they need to be moved to a safe location where they have shown a willingness to hold their bladder.  Remember it is natural for a dog to leave scent where ever they go as a trail to follow home as well as signs for other passing animals. 


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You are what you eat!

This old adage applies to canines as well as people.  There are so many types and varieties of dog food available in the commercial marketplace today it has become very confusing which is best the best choice.  A little common sense will take your dog a long way.

The best practice to decipher your purchase is to read the ingredient list on the dog food, canned or dry.  Just like people food, there are regulations that force the dog food industry to place the list of ingredients on the container.  Whatever is top on the list is what the food contains the most of (usually 80%), and on down the list it goes in order.  Do not listen to the hype of the television commercials for what to feed your pup.   The more money a company has the more they can claim how great their product is.   Another factor to look at when deciding is where the ingredients originate.   As the news has reported, thousands of pets have died from jerky treats produced in China.  Reading the package information reveals where the food or treat was produced. 

Top of the brand lists found in most grocery stores would be Iams, Eukanuba, Science Diet, and Purina Pro Plan.  However top cost is not top quality.   Of these listed brands only Pro Plan begins the food with real turkey, chicken, tuna, or other meat products (there are some specialty stores and vets that carry a better dog food than found in commercial stores such as WalMart).  Some dogs must have special diet foods low in sugar, salt, protein or the like and vets offer those under many name brands.    But for the common folk shopping on a grocery store list of options, reading the label brings to light some interesting facts.

If the top ingredient says chicken, beef, lamb or the like, followed by the words "by product" you are getting things not rated for human consumption such as feathers, beaks and feet in the case of chicken.  Yes your dog is not human, but if that is not something you would feed yourself why give it to your pet?   This is not to say that lower priced foods will not allow your companion to thrive but junk in junk out.  Meaning you have more waste in the backyard to pick up, your dog must consume more cups of feed per day, and balancing the cost factor shows it may be wise to purchase the higher priced food.

As an example, the lower end choice of Purina Dog Chow is a perfectly fine food, however, one might need to feed double the cups each day, pick up double the yard waste of the dog, and result in a dog with not so shiny coat, itching, summer hot spots, allergies, etc.   Once the dog starts itching, one might have to spend more money to see a vet and use supplements along with the dog feed.   The cost of vet visits and supplements would be more than the cost of a better quality food. 
This is not to say your pet won't have allergies on the better food ; it is merely an example. 

If one were to purchase a product whose first ingredient is real meat,  is low in ash ( a filler product), and the top five ingredients are something you would not mind eating yourself, the dogs coat would apt to be more shiny and have less shedding.   Some farm stores sell dog food from companies such as Diamond, which offers the consumer a lower priced food at a higher quality.  Purina sells Dog Chow (low end of spectrum) but also offers Pro Plan (high end food).   A quick read of the outside panel of ingredients will reveal the type you want your companion to eat.

 From there, the choice is which meat is best for my dog.  For dogs with sensitive stomachs, allergies, or picky taste buds, try the salmon, turkey, lamb or venison styles.   Trial and error of purchasing small bags of feed will tell you which one your pup likes best.  There are some dogs who try to convince their owners they can only eat people food.  To those owners, don't be fooled, the dog is playing you.   It is important to feed dry kibble of some kind or the dog risks a non balanced diet.

There are those owners who make their own feed.  This is a costly endeavor and one that needs  many supplements along with time to create and might not be economical for the average pup.  If this is the route to take, please read all you can to make sure the dog is getting a proper balanced diet. 

Feeding dry vs canned food is another question many owners wonder about.   Canned food is 80% water.   Used to add palate ability to dry, for the picky eaters, or as a place to hide needed medicines it is a good idea.  Feeding only canned food is not usually cost effective and harder to transport  than a bag of dry.  

When we feed our cherished companions it is important to purchase the best food one can buy.  Just like ourselves, Filet Mignon is tastier than sausage and has less fat and fillers.  Our pets can greatly benefit from a quick read of a label and making the best choice for the money.


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Review of Flea Treatments

As October rolls in people hope for a break from this years large flea and tick explosion.   These tiny critters leap onto pets, making them miserable and often causing secondary infections due to excessive scratching.  Then the fleas/ticks fall off in the home and car creating even more havoc.

Most products for flea and tick removal and control boast about their greatness, but not many do the job.   Having worked in the pet industry and keeping companions for nearly twenty years, I have seen when only dips and shampoos were available to the irritated pet and owner.   While most flea shampoos from both your vet and the local store work well, as soon as the rinse and dry is finished fleas will jump back onto the pet.   For puppies, ill pets, or a found dog who is infested this is a good first step.  

Beyond the shampoo are products called "dips", usually one mixes this up and covers the dog until saturated, then allows dog to air dry.   Dips can be lethal if product interactions and label instructions are not read and followed.   Dips should not be used when the dog has other monthly treatments on the fur, with puppies, ill or elderly dogs.   In short, be very careful as one can easily overdose a pet using a dip solution.

Flea collars sold in stores or at a vet generally do not work.   Most vets today only sell tick collars.  Flea collars simply smell bad, make your dogs coat smell, and seem to be only for looks. 

Beyond the shampoos and dips available, at nearly all stores with a pet section, there are monthly doses in vials.  The store bought ones offered for sale, appear to be not worth the funds spent on them.   As costly as care for ones pet is, it is better to get the top of the line protection then have to treat every where the animal came in contact.   (Most of the following products are offered online, sometimes only with a prescription from a vet)  When going to the local vet, ask their advice on which products they would recommend.  

Various products work for different needs of each dog and owner, such as hair coat,indoor/outdoor animal, and frequency of grooming.   My favorite flea product to date is Comfortis.  This is a pill, given orally to the pet, on a monthly basis.  For all the years my dogs have gone to parks, obedience classes, swimming, and boarding, I found this to be the very best, albeit costly, flea product.   The flea that bites on an animal with Comfortis in its system will die before it has the chance to bite again or reproduce.  This pill lasts for one month, begins killing fleas in thirty minutes after ingestion, and kills fleas before they lay eggs.

Capstar is a vet regulated product used to kill only adult fleas but begins working within thirty minutes of the dog taking the oral pill.  This is a good choice for heavy infestations and can be followed up with a monthly flea preventative.  Capstar does not prevent fleas.

Next on the top list would have to be Frontline or Frontline Plus.  Both are waterproof, topical and last about one month.  In addition to killing fleas, this product kills the eggs, lice, larvae, and ticks. Within twelve hours of application nearly all of the adult fleas are dead.  This is great for outdoor, hunting, swimming or dogs that need to be bathed frequently.   I have had great success with this product even through bi-weekly bathing. 

Advantage (Advantage II), sold at vet offices, is also a topical flea product.  This one does not seem to work for as long a period of time.  It is not water resistant and in boarding or high flea infested areas I find the dogs still pick up fleas that live long enough to start a sensitive skinned dog scratching for days.  In winter through spring this is a great choice and for homes where ones pet does not mingle with other animals. 

If your dog has a flea, count on the fact that a million more are somewhere close by.   As soon as possible after dispatching the flea begin to treat your home, car, and yard.    I find Raid makes a very good, lightly scented, hand spray can for carpets, pet bedding, furniture and car.  I have a parrot and fish tanks in the home and this spray, when used properly and home aired out for an hour after use, left no ill affects one commonly sees with foggers.   After you have removed all living beings and covered your fish tank, spray this  liberally on, over, and under all areas of the home.  Next it is time to vacuum.  LOTS and lots of vacuuming.   The key to this is to repeat every day on as many surfaces in your home as possible and not to forget to tape closed, place in a plastic bag, and take outside to the trash the bag from your vacuum.  If you have a bag less, it is wise to use a blower to clean out the filters and empty canister outside into sealed plastic bags.  A sprits of Raid flea killer on the canister will usually do the rest.  Failing to do this step will allow captured live fleas to crawl out and back into your home. 

Foggers are great for the entire house but require a bit more work.  Some fogger instructions speak about unplugging all electric items, turn off gas, and open all cabinet doors then have to wash all items upon return.   Living creatures must be removed and stay outside the area for the time the fogger is working, then some hours after, and the home must be aired out before anyone returns.   For heavy infestations this is a good choice, just be prepared to make arrangements for you and all your animals while the product works.   After fogging vacuuming every few days and following above procedure is still recommended.

The grass is a great place for fleas and ticks to hide.  Keeping it mowed short allows it to dry faster and the sun to keep it at an uncomfortable temperature for these critters to thrive.  Topical application of yard flea spray is available at most hardware stores but one must be very cautious in its use.   Sometimes a dog will get this on its fur, lick it off and become ill, or munch on the grass and become ill.   Read the labels well before using these products.

In short, fleas and ticks are a huge hassle to the pet owner and dog.  It is always best to get the advice of your local vet on which products are good for your specific animals needs.  Age, weight, skin issues, as well as overall health all play a role in using the correct product.   If an owner takes the time in early spring to spray the carpets and furniture with a lasting flea killer then possibly there will be far less to deal with when the inevitable flea rides in and leaps off to burrow in your favorite chair. 


                                                                    © PawEarFull Legacys

What are Service Dogs?

It can become very confusing to decipher the laws surrounding the use of service dogs.  There are service dogs, therapy dogs, companion dogs, emotional and psychiatric dogs and the list goes on.   In my time of working with dogs I have not seen an influx of people who pretend to have a service animal when they do not.  However, there is written evidence to support this occurrence.    The government provides a set standard that must be followed when stating a dog is a service animal.  

The Americans With Disability Act, ADA, sates : a service animal is one that is trained specifically to perform tasks on behalf of a disabled individual, further defining a disability as: “A mental or physical condition which substantially limits a major life activity such as caring for one’s self, performing manual tasks, walking, seeing, hearing, speaking, breathing, learning and working.”  However, the ADA neither legally requires service animals to be certified nor has a certification standard. Protected under federal law, the dogs are allowed to accompany their handler into all environments.   

It is a seldom stated fact, that a dog can be trained by the handler.  This allows a person with a disability is able to obtain a dog from many sources, including shelters, pounds, newspapers, etc.  Once a suitable animal has been found, it can be trained at home, or by a professional, for ones specific disability.  Some people may fancy themselves a trainer of service dogs but the truth is, one has to be dedicated to the process for the entire lifetime of the dog.   Before a canine is suitable to be even a therapy dog (as pictured above which goes to comfort the sick and elderly),  it has to go through many levels of proofing.   

Proofing an animal is exposing it to a huge variety of situations, people, animals, and other things a service dog might encounter while accompanying their handler.   The dog must be of stable temperament, exposed to loud noises, sudden movement, all types of attire which people wear, all types of animals, and show no aggressive tendencies to anything.   A dog who spooks or snaps will not even begin to fit the bill.   

Psychiatric service animals are the least known.  More often one will encounter a seeing eye or hearing dog and recognize the animal is working.   Our vets who have P.T.S.D. (sometimes refereed to as walking wounded) are starting to obtain dogs which do fall under the federal guidelines provided a service dog.   When a dog has been trained to alert an owner to potential seizes, bracing the unstable medicated owner, signaling panic attacks, and even rousing heavily medicated handlers to take their medications they fall under the federal guidelines stated above.  

It is greatly upsetting to a disabled person to be met by tons of questions as to the use of their service animal.   It is rude to even ask.    When a handler enters a property (store, restaurant, shop) where dogs are not allowed, the only thing that is allowed to be asked is "Is this a service dog?".  

Period. 

The dog does not have to wear a special vest, the owner is not required to carry identification or papers proving anything about the status of the animal in question.   There are hefty fines involved in harassing and not allowing entrance of a service dog to a facility.   

Some people are merely uninformed.   It is never proper to pet, or ask to pet a working service animal.  The dog is supposed to be focused entirely upon its handler.  To pet them distracts from the task at hand.    

Generally, when a dog is in an environment which does not allow them, leashed, behaving properly,  and aware of its handler, it would be wise to assume this dog is working in a service capacity.   Service dogs go through their entire life evolving training skills.  There may be a time one will encounter a "service dog trainee" and it should be afforded the same respect as a fully trained animal.  To do less would be detrimental to the dog and the would be owner.

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Right Tool for the Job

Dog collars, so many to choose from!  What collar is best for your pup?  That all depends upon what you are doing with your dog, the environment, and how you plan to use the tool (collar).  It is my belief that many types of collars, leads, and harnesses each have their place on different types, breeds, and personalities of dogs.  It is the person who uses the various tool, correctly or incorrectly, that causes harm or creates the desired effect.  In the wrong hands, a collar, even a flat buckle, can injure an animal.

The above picture offers many choices, for your average pampered pet who lives indoors, and is not chained by their collar, a simple flat buckle (fancy or elegant) or a quick clasp collar (one that snaps together with two plastic pieces) will do to carry the dogs ID and rabies tags.  Pets which have long hair may fair better with a slip over the head type of collar.  Animals who are tied out by their collars need the flat buckle type.

But comfy, loose fitting collars are not meant for taking your pet out of the yard.  Far too many times  clever dogs will simply back out of their comfy "house" collars on a walk and dart away.   For dogs who tend to slip their collars there is a type made out of colorful nylon with a small area of chain or extra nylon threaded through loops at the front of the collar.   This serves to pull the collar closed on the neck of dogs who have small, fine heads such as Dobermans, Greyhounds, or Whippets.   There is not enough chain or material to collapse the trachea but will keep it from slipping over the head when pulled closed.

Choke collars, ones made entirely of a chain material with two large rings at each end, should never be left on a dog unattended.  These are used most often in training classes and  confirmation shows  but are dangerous to be left on in a kennel, crate, car or any place the dog is not attached to a person by a lead.  Definitely not to be used to tie a dog outside.  I have seen a dog leap over a fence, with a choke chain on, get the links caught in the fence and strangle.

The wide red leather collar with the spikes (pictured above) is a handy choice for dogs who live in an area where other dogs roam loose and might jump on them while being walked.  The spikes are sharp and might deter a stray from injuring a leashed pet.  I have used this exact collar for this purpose and my small mixed breed was no longer the target of roaming, aggressive dogs. A word of caution, the spike are sharp on human hands. As with all wide or leather collars, be aware of the environmental effect on them, too hot and humid will cause wetness under the collar, possible sores and matted hair coat.   Rain or snow can cause shrinkage and color seepage onto dogs coat. 

The width of a collar is usually determined by the coat of the dog, preference of the owner, and especially if the animal is tied out in the yard.   A wider collar on a big breed with a heavy coat is much more suitable than on smaller dogs.  The wide width keeps the coat from becoming hopelessly tangled in dry air, while the width provides more even pull on a greater surface area of the dogs neck.

Pinch or prong collars , the ones with dull prongs making a circle around the dogs neck and a looped small chain with a D ring on the end also has its place.   These are often used with high drive dogs such as German Shepherd Dogs or Malinois that are active in police work.   This collar is not to be left on an unattended dog and never used to tie one outdoors.   I have seen when loose dogs, riding in a vehicle, wearing pinch collars, got a prong stuck in the eye of a playmate.  Consequently, the choke and pinch collars are strictly for use during the time a handler is available to be with the animal.

Harnesses are a great option for walking dogs, tracking or using them to pull loads.   Some breeds compete in pulling competitions where harnesses are hooked up to set loads of weight on sleds or wagons and the animal goes through a course in a set time period.  This usually is denoted by what the breed was originally created to do.  An example of a pulling harness on a working breed can be seen in sledding competitions (Iditarod).

It is best to get your pampered pet used to a variety of collars and harnesses, in doing so you always have a tool handy.   Some dogs take a bit of time to get used to walking smoothly on different collars and harnesses.  A small amount of training in the yard will leave you free to pick the style you wish to carry when you and your buddy head out for a new adventure.   Remember, it is the person who is using the tool, not the tool/collar itself that causes injury to the dog.  Following proper education and guidelines  allows a wide variety of tools to be used in day to day tasks with your pet. 


                                                            © PawEarFull Legacys