Review of Flea Treatments

As October rolls in people hope for a break from this years large flea and tick explosion.   These tiny critters leap onto pets, making them miserable and often causing secondary infections due to excessive scratching.  Then the fleas/ticks fall off in the home and car creating even more havoc.

Most products for flea and tick removal and control boast about their greatness, but not many do the job.   Having worked in the pet industry and keeping companions for nearly twenty years, I have seen when only dips and shampoos were available to the irritated pet and owner.   While most flea shampoos from both your vet and the local store work well, as soon as the rinse and dry is finished fleas will jump back onto the pet.   For puppies, ill pets, or a found dog who is infested this is a good first step.  

Beyond the shampoo are products called "dips", usually one mixes this up and covers the dog until saturated, then allows dog to air dry.   Dips can be lethal if product interactions and label instructions are not read and followed.   Dips should not be used when the dog has other monthly treatments on the fur, with puppies, ill or elderly dogs.   In short, be very careful as one can easily overdose a pet using a dip solution.

Flea collars sold in stores or at a vet generally do not work.   Most vets today only sell tick collars.  Flea collars simply smell bad, make your dogs coat smell, and seem to be only for looks. 

Beyond the shampoos and dips available, at nearly all stores with a pet section, there are monthly doses in vials.  The store bought ones offered for sale, appear to be not worth the funds spent on them.   As costly as care for ones pet is, it is better to get the top of the line protection then have to treat every where the animal came in contact.   (Most of the following products are offered online, sometimes only with a prescription from a vet)  When going to the local vet, ask their advice on which products they would recommend.  

Various products work for different needs of each dog and owner, such as hair coat,indoor/outdoor animal, and frequency of grooming.   My favorite flea product to date is Comfortis.  This is a pill, given orally to the pet, on a monthly basis.  For all the years my dogs have gone to parks, obedience classes, swimming, and boarding, I found this to be the very best, albeit costly, flea product.   The flea that bites on an animal with Comfortis in its system will die before it has the chance to bite again or reproduce.  This pill lasts for one month, begins killing fleas in thirty minutes after ingestion, and kills fleas before they lay eggs.

Capstar is a vet regulated product used to kill only adult fleas but begins working within thirty minutes of the dog taking the oral pill.  This is a good choice for heavy infestations and can be followed up with a monthly flea preventative.  Capstar does not prevent fleas.

Next on the top list would have to be Frontline or Frontline Plus.  Both are waterproof, topical and last about one month.  In addition to killing fleas, this product kills the eggs, lice, larvae, and ticks. Within twelve hours of application nearly all of the adult fleas are dead.  This is great for outdoor, hunting, swimming or dogs that need to be bathed frequently.   I have had great success with this product even through bi-weekly bathing. 

Advantage (Advantage II), sold at vet offices, is also a topical flea product.  This one does not seem to work for as long a period of time.  It is not water resistant and in boarding or high flea infested areas I find the dogs still pick up fleas that live long enough to start a sensitive skinned dog scratching for days.  In winter through spring this is a great choice and for homes where ones pet does not mingle with other animals. 

If your dog has a flea, count on the fact that a million more are somewhere close by.   As soon as possible after dispatching the flea begin to treat your home, car, and yard.    I find Raid makes a very good, lightly scented, hand spray can for carpets, pet bedding, furniture and car.  I have a parrot and fish tanks in the home and this spray, when used properly and home aired out for an hour after use, left no ill affects one commonly sees with foggers.   After you have removed all living beings and covered your fish tank, spray this  liberally on, over, and under all areas of the home.  Next it is time to vacuum.  LOTS and lots of vacuuming.   The key to this is to repeat every day on as many surfaces in your home as possible and not to forget to tape closed, place in a plastic bag, and take outside to the trash the bag from your vacuum.  If you have a bag less, it is wise to use a blower to clean out the filters and empty canister outside into sealed plastic bags.  A sprits of Raid flea killer on the canister will usually do the rest.  Failing to do this step will allow captured live fleas to crawl out and back into your home. 

Foggers are great for the entire house but require a bit more work.  Some fogger instructions speak about unplugging all electric items, turn off gas, and open all cabinet doors then have to wash all items upon return.   Living creatures must be removed and stay outside the area for the time the fogger is working, then some hours after, and the home must be aired out before anyone returns.   For heavy infestations this is a good choice, just be prepared to make arrangements for you and all your animals while the product works.   After fogging vacuuming every few days and following above procedure is still recommended.

The grass is a great place for fleas and ticks to hide.  Keeping it mowed short allows it to dry faster and the sun to keep it at an uncomfortable temperature for these critters to thrive.  Topical application of yard flea spray is available at most hardware stores but one must be very cautious in its use.   Sometimes a dog will get this on its fur, lick it off and become ill, or munch on the grass and become ill.   Read the labels well before using these products.

In short, fleas and ticks are a huge hassle to the pet owner and dog.  It is always best to get the advice of your local vet on which products are good for your specific animals needs.  Age, weight, skin issues, as well as overall health all play a role in using the correct product.   If an owner takes the time in early spring to spray the carpets and furniture with a lasting flea killer then possibly there will be far less to deal with when the inevitable flea rides in and leaps off to burrow in your favorite chair. 


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What are Service Dogs?

It can become very confusing to decipher the laws surrounding the use of service dogs.  There are service dogs, therapy dogs, companion dogs, emotional and psychiatric dogs and the list goes on.   In my time of working with dogs I have not seen an influx of people who pretend to have a service animal when they do not.  However, there is written evidence to support this occurrence.    The government provides a set standard that must be followed when stating a dog is a service animal.  

The Americans With Disability Act, ADA, sates : a service animal is one that is trained specifically to perform tasks on behalf of a disabled individual, further defining a disability as: “A mental or physical condition which substantially limits a major life activity such as caring for one’s self, performing manual tasks, walking, seeing, hearing, speaking, breathing, learning and working.”  However, the ADA neither legally requires service animals to be certified nor has a certification standard. Protected under federal law, the dogs are allowed to accompany their handler into all environments.   

It is a seldom stated fact, that a dog can be trained by the handler.  This allows a person with a disability is able to obtain a dog from many sources, including shelters, pounds, newspapers, etc.  Once a suitable animal has been found, it can be trained at home, or by a professional, for ones specific disability.  Some people may fancy themselves a trainer of service dogs but the truth is, one has to be dedicated to the process for the entire lifetime of the dog.   Before a canine is suitable to be even a therapy dog (as pictured above which goes to comfort the sick and elderly),  it has to go through many levels of proofing.   

Proofing an animal is exposing it to a huge variety of situations, people, animals, and other things a service dog might encounter while accompanying their handler.   The dog must be of stable temperament, exposed to loud noises, sudden movement, all types of attire which people wear, all types of animals, and show no aggressive tendencies to anything.   A dog who spooks or snaps will not even begin to fit the bill.   

Psychiatric service animals are the least known.  More often one will encounter a seeing eye or hearing dog and recognize the animal is working.   Our vets who have P.T.S.D. (sometimes refereed to as walking wounded) are starting to obtain dogs which do fall under the federal guidelines provided a service dog.   When a dog has been trained to alert an owner to potential seizes, bracing the unstable medicated owner, signaling panic attacks, and even rousing heavily medicated handlers to take their medications they fall under the federal guidelines stated above.  

It is greatly upsetting to a disabled person to be met by tons of questions as to the use of their service animal.   It is rude to even ask.    When a handler enters a property (store, restaurant, shop) where dogs are not allowed, the only thing that is allowed to be asked is "Is this a service dog?".  

Period. 

The dog does not have to wear a special vest, the owner is not required to carry identification or papers proving anything about the status of the animal in question.   There are hefty fines involved in harassing and not allowing entrance of a service dog to a facility.   

Some people are merely uninformed.   It is never proper to pet, or ask to pet a working service animal.  The dog is supposed to be focused entirely upon its handler.  To pet them distracts from the task at hand.    

Generally, when a dog is in an environment which does not allow them, leashed, behaving properly,  and aware of its handler, it would be wise to assume this dog is working in a service capacity.   Service dogs go through their entire life evolving training skills.  There may be a time one will encounter a "service dog trainee" and it should be afforded the same respect as a fully trained animal.  To do less would be detrimental to the dog and the would be owner.

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Right Tool for the Job

Dog collars, so many to choose from!  What collar is best for your pup?  That all depends upon what you are doing with your dog, the environment, and how you plan to use the tool (collar).  It is my belief that many types of collars, leads, and harnesses each have their place on different types, breeds, and personalities of dogs.  It is the person who uses the various tool, correctly or incorrectly, that causes harm or creates the desired effect.  In the wrong hands, a collar, even a flat buckle, can injure an animal.

The above picture offers many choices, for your average pampered pet who lives indoors, and is not chained by their collar, a simple flat buckle (fancy or elegant) or a quick clasp collar (one that snaps together with two plastic pieces) will do to carry the dogs ID and rabies tags.  Pets which have long hair may fair better with a slip over the head type of collar.  Animals who are tied out by their collars need the flat buckle type.

But comfy, loose fitting collars are not meant for taking your pet out of the yard.  Far too many times  clever dogs will simply back out of their comfy "house" collars on a walk and dart away.   For dogs who tend to slip their collars there is a type made out of colorful nylon with a small area of chain or extra nylon threaded through loops at the front of the collar.   This serves to pull the collar closed on the neck of dogs who have small, fine heads such as Dobermans, Greyhounds, or Whippets.   There is not enough chain or material to collapse the trachea but will keep it from slipping over the head when pulled closed.

Choke collars, ones made entirely of a chain material with two large rings at each end, should never be left on a dog unattended.  These are used most often in training classes and  confirmation shows  but are dangerous to be left on in a kennel, crate, car or any place the dog is not attached to a person by a lead.  Definitely not to be used to tie a dog outside.  I have seen a dog leap over a fence, with a choke chain on, get the links caught in the fence and strangle.

The wide red leather collar with the spikes (pictured above) is a handy choice for dogs who live in an area where other dogs roam loose and might jump on them while being walked.  The spikes are sharp and might deter a stray from injuring a leashed pet.  I have used this exact collar for this purpose and my small mixed breed was no longer the target of roaming, aggressive dogs. A word of caution, the spike are sharp on human hands. As with all wide or leather collars, be aware of the environmental effect on them, too hot and humid will cause wetness under the collar, possible sores and matted hair coat.   Rain or snow can cause shrinkage and color seepage onto dogs coat. 

The width of a collar is usually determined by the coat of the dog, preference of the owner, and especially if the animal is tied out in the yard.   A wider collar on a big breed with a heavy coat is much more suitable than on smaller dogs.  The wide width keeps the coat from becoming hopelessly tangled in dry air, while the width provides more even pull on a greater surface area of the dogs neck.

Pinch or prong collars , the ones with dull prongs making a circle around the dogs neck and a looped small chain with a D ring on the end also has its place.   These are often used with high drive dogs such as German Shepherd Dogs or Malinois that are active in police work.   This collar is not to be left on an unattended dog and never used to tie one outdoors.   I have seen when loose dogs, riding in a vehicle, wearing pinch collars, got a prong stuck in the eye of a playmate.  Consequently, the choke and pinch collars are strictly for use during the time a handler is available to be with the animal.

Harnesses are a great option for walking dogs, tracking or using them to pull loads.   Some breeds compete in pulling competitions where harnesses are hooked up to set loads of weight on sleds or wagons and the animal goes through a course in a set time period.  This usually is denoted by what the breed was originally created to do.  An example of a pulling harness on a working breed can be seen in sledding competitions (Iditarod).

It is best to get your pampered pet used to a variety of collars and harnesses, in doing so you always have a tool handy.   Some dogs take a bit of time to get used to walking smoothly on different collars and harnesses.  A small amount of training in the yard will leave you free to pick the style you wish to carry when you and your buddy head out for a new adventure.   Remember, it is the person who is using the tool, not the tool/collar itself that causes injury to the dog.  Following proper education and guidelines  allows a wide variety of tools to be used in day to day tasks with your pet. 


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Follow the Leader

In any group there must be a leader.  Without effective leadership one has no path or direction to follow.  Here is a picture of huskies pulling a sled.  In groups of sled dogs there is always a leader dog.  That dog guides the others in the direction they need to go to stay on course.  But the true leader is the person on the sled.  Even though he is behind them, without his encouragement and guidance, the sled would not stay the course.

The same is true about family pets.   All pets need a leader, without one the dog will take that spot, however our companions are happiest when in a  following role.  Some say leaders are born, others say a set of circumstances make them.   Science teaches us that leaders can be created when the need arises and the scent of the pheromones given off changes according to status.  Pheromones are a chemical substance released by an animal that serves to influence the physiology or behavior of other members of their same species.

This scent is taken in through the highly sensitive nose and is hard wired to the brain.  Humans, allegedly, who are true leaders give off these pheromones of leadership which our pet can smell.  An otherwise submissive dog will assume top role if we become ill or injured. It is all part of the pack mentality of keeping the group alive.   There are many rescue stories of dogs who saved their owners from burglary, assault, or getting hit by a car as they cross the street.  Often these heroic animals are not trained to do such but are following their leadership instinct.
Several studies have shown  pheromones in an  animal change as their role in the pack moves to alpha.  As an example,  a variety of apes  studied by scientists  uncovered that there are hormonal changes which take place when a new ape reaches the alpha role. The animal then gives off a different pheromone then when it was in the beta position of the group.

When selecting a leader for a pack, the animals rely on chemical clues which relay information about the social status, and health of a pack member.  The group always picks the alpha to follow.
Most of us have  played follow the leader games, such as “Simon Says”, when we were growing up as well as learning how to take direction from parents and teaches.  This is a small glance into how groups of animals work.  Although we can not assume every parent or teacher was a leader, often there was a more structured, attentive class of students to one particular teacher or parent.   Likewise, our dogs do not have the benefit of every owner being a leader.  But you will see a dog who is lacking in leadership being unruly and disobedient as they have not clear path to follow.


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