Disclaimer:

Disclaimer: The copyright is strictly for the text of this blog and not the pictures. As you can read in my bio, the information and views expressed within this blog are based on my lifetime of experience with animals. Other opinions can and do exist. Some have merit, some do not.

Friday, September 20, 2013

Dog Gone It!

It does not matter how green your grass, the number of hot tubs, the array of ornaments and flowers you place in your yard, or even how many toys your precious companion has, a dog without a fence, kennel, or tie out will roam.  Some people seem to think dogs view boundaries of land as they do.   The opposite is true.  A dog is always trying to extend its home range, find friends, and look to breed.  Dogs are pack animals and if left to their own devices they will wander away from home.   For those farm folks out there, yes, I know, some dogs always make it back and maybe by the skin of their paws don't get hit by a vehicle, but the dangers of a loose dog are many.

For starters, most cities have leash laws and if your dog is in violation, off on his own, someone may pick him up and drop him off at the local pound.  Once that is done there is usually a seven day hold before being euthanized and to spring them a fine must be paid.  The spread of fleas, ticks, worms, and transferable diseases are a few other reasons to keep your pup home.   The options of allowing a dog outside, alone and restrained are basic; fenced yard, tie outs and kennels.

Top pick is a fenced yard.  It is important to note that even with the most secure fence, if you leave the gate open the dog can get out.   Sounds stupid but some people don't watch when coming and going, neighborhood children, and service men all can leave the gate open for just long enough for your four footed friend to sneak out.   If no one is home to call them back it could be hours, days, or never when they return.  For various personal reasons some people do not advocate micro chipping your pet.   For those people there are collars, tags, and tattooing.   It is important to always have something to identify the dog to others.

Kenneling a dog is another outdoor alternative.   Panels are available in various lengths and heights and can be put together to form a pen.  For me, this is not a substitute for allowing time out of the pen to sniff, walk, run, and play.   Depending upon the size of your pet, there are four foot and six foot tall panels.   It is best to get the tallest one can afford and put a top on it in case your animal turns out to be a climber.  Dog house, fresh, cool water, and shade should be available at all times.   Placing stones or paving bricks around the boarder will help with digging dogs.   These pens tend to allow the dog to destroy your grass in one area, turning the yard and dog into a muddy, smelly mess when it rains.  Placing bulk cedar chips down on the grass is a good choice as it is fairly flea resistant and the air space between the chips allows for faster drying of the dog and ground.

Finally, there are many devices to tie a dog outside and provide a dog house for him.   However, the dog has no protection from strays and can easily become tangled without a great deal of effort put into creating a snag free zone.   An overhead, or flat to the ground, "zip" type line with a lead running to the dog provides the least amount of problems.  The run can be moved if needed, and the dog gets a longer area to move in, often enough room to run a bit.  Chains are just not the "IN" fashion anymore.   Always use flat buckle collars when tying your dog outside.  The plastic snap ones are pretty but a yank on one and it can break off.  (Collars should be loose enough to allow three of your fingers between the dogs neck and the fabric, check often for sores, or out growing).

Even with all these precautions there can be a situation where your dog is gone, either by accident or theft.   Be prepared with current pictures of the dog, the local pound, humane society, and the vets phone numbers.   Start calling right away.  Most places are open 9-5 and may close before they get your information.  Start talking with your neighbors, and if your pet was stolen, the police.  Make up flyers and ask to post them at vets, groomers, grocery stores, laundry mats and any other place that allows it. (When your pet is found remember to be courteous and go take those flyers down)

 Call the paper and make an ad.  Lost pet ads are usually free and run seven days in most places.  Then start looking for your companion with friends.  Drive around calling out the dogs name, stop at places where dogs live outdoors, drive the route you take the dog walking, they can travel several miles before turning back home.  Keep looking.  If your pet was not spayed or neutered, and ran away to answer the call of nature, you could walk right by them and they may not come to you.  Additionally, use whatever social media you have to get the word out to everyone.  Pets have been rescued from states and even countries away when news of their disappearance was made public.

In any case, no matter the story's end, learn from the experience.  Even if your pet was stolen, there are safe guards one can take to prevent a repeat in the future.  Since we neglected to provide dogs with "comment boxes", make the housing for your animal the best you can offer by imagining yourself living in the same situation for however long they are left unattended.  You might change your mind about how your companion is housed and upgrade their accommodations.


                                                                   © PawEarFull Legacys




Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Don't Judge A Breed By Its Cover!

While out on a leisurely stroll alone or with your pet, you spot a loose dog that looks very much like the one pictured above, what do you do?   Today, as I was walking my Toy Fox Terrier and Beagle I saw three unattended, loose dogs of this variety standing on the sidewalk eying us.  I paused, alerted both dogs to the presence of the loose dogs ahead (thus showing a united front when approaching) and walked forward calmly.   Two of the three circled us, tails stiff, hackles up, trying to place their heads over the backs of my dogs.   When one got too close I calmly and with directed energy said "Hey" at the same time, using two stiff fingers, quickly poked on the dogs neck.   It was just enough to distract their attention from the full on focus they had.   In a few minutes the owner strolled outside, and gathered her dogs.  To have run, yelled, snatched up my dogs, or tried to push past them would have led to an all out dog fight.   It could have been any breed  or group of dogs and I would have done the same thing, read the non-verbal cues being exchanged.

If you believe the dog pictured above is a Pit Bull you would be totally wrong!   The above dog is an American Staffordshire Terrier.  There are a few "Bully Breeds" , as they are called, including the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, American Pit Bull Terrier, Boston Terrier, American Bulldog, Bull Terrier, Bulldog, Bullmastiff, French Bulldog, Olde English Bulldogge, Renascence Bulldogge, Victorian Bulldog, Alapaha Blue Blood, and Boxers.    The sizes, temperaments, and original tasks each of these breeds was created to perform varies widely.

Not many people would watch in horror when the United States Marine Corps walk "Chesty", their mascot, ( English Bulldog adopted as the official breed in 1922)  through a crowd or onto a field  because it is a member of the "bully breeds".     Likewise, people should not judge ANY breed of dog based on stories or hype.   The American Temperament Test Society, Inc., a professional organization that independently tests temperaments of over 200 breeds, found that bully breeds, in terms of friendly disposition, all rank on par with such dogs as Beagles and Australian Shepherds.   Having worked, for years, in a boarding kennel which housed over 200 owned dogs, as well as grooming for that facility, I can say far more Cocker Spaniels, Shih Tzu, Bichon Frise', and American Eskimo dogs (the small breeds) along with Chow Chows, Akitas, and Alaskan Malamutes  (the big breeds) were the most likely to bite.

Refrain from blaming an entire category of breeds for being vicious; instead blame the foolish owners.   Far too many people obtain a specific breed for the sole purpose of creating a biting dog.  Lack of socialization, purposeful baiting, and complete disregard for life (human or animal), on the part of the owner, can create a dangerous dog.  The simple fact is ALL dogs have the capacity to bite and breed bans are encouraged only by the ignorant in our society.   If people want safer dogs, they need to attend care/maintenance classes, training classes, read and study about dog behavior, socialize their companion in as many opportunities as possible, don't buy from back yard breeders/puppy mills and support causes that ban the use of dogs in fighting.   By setting a good example with our own companions in public and encouraging other dog owners to follow suit, we may be able to create less drama, more harmony, and dissolve the need to isolate any one breed no matter what the original intention of that particular canine was 100 years ago.


                                                                          © PawEarFull Legacys
                





Monday, September 16, 2013

Situational Awareness and Leash Etiquette





There is nothing more relaxing than a peaceful walk with your companions.   The above four dogs are expert walkers.   The guardian is tuned into, or situationally aware of everything in the environment and thus keeps the dogs from harm.  Through unspoken energy, and verbal or hand commands one can see teams of dogs, who may not even live together, walking gently along with a handler.   Some people have trouble walking just one dog, it pulls or lags, drags you off into the bushes to sniff, barks at passing people or lunges at dogs behind fences.   When this occurs it is usually because the dog lacks respect for the human holding the lead, and the human is not showing leadership.

I used to walk my four dogs,at the same time, twice a day, for a couple of miles and rarely ran into difficulties.   Knowing who is in charge and being aware of the environment allows you and your animal greater freedom.   A leash is not meant to be used as a tie out, thus, when you place your dog on a leash and go some where, it is important to be mindful of everything at the end of that six feet.   Six feet, the length of most standard leashes, can allow for a lot of problems.   Stray dogs can approach, children can get bitten, and being too close to the street at a corner may cause the death of your pet.   Time and again I have seen dogs unsupervised on walks.   Flexi leads are the worst for this.   They can allow your pet to make a sudden dash into the road long before you have a chance to hit the brake on the handle and possibly, with a big dog, the cord might sever entirely.

It is your job to be alert to potential threats as you are exercising your pet.  Be cognizant of bushes that come up to the sidewalk and driveways on the other side where a car backing out would have no chance to see you.  Look for other dogs and cats that may be loose in yards so when your pet gets close enough to see them and jerks on the lead, you are ready and holding firm.  If you stop and talk with people , be courteous and do not allow your dog to sniff or scratch them, instead make them stay back.  Not everyone loves dogs and many do not want dog fur or slobber on their clothes.  Don't allow dogs to urinate on lawn ornaments, children's toys, car tires, or even the home owners proper lawn.   Curb your dog.  By that I mean let your pet use the area of grass that lies between the sidewalk and the street.  This area, although maintained by the home owner, is usually owned by the city.   Always bring bags to pick up after your pet makes a deposit.   No one, even fellow dog owners, wants to clean up after your animal. 

Use the time when walking to teach.   Some commands, if repeated often when walking, may one day save your pets life.   There are a few that come to mind.   Wait:  This one is often used if you need to stop forward movement for any reason; tying a shoe, fixing a collar, or crossing a busy road.   Use this word with a slight pulling back on the lead and waiting till the dog stops walking forward, then praise..... not just good... say " Good Wait " .  The dogs needs to know what they did right or wrong.  Just like saying only no... only good tells them nothing much.  There may be an occasion that your pet darts out the door and is about to run into the street, saying Wait! may save its life.  Another command is  OK Cross.  This is used when the roadway or driveway or area you are crossing is clear of traffic and it is safe to go.   The dog should be waiting, then when the "OK Cross" is given, step forward and the dogs usually hurrys to follow.   There is the  Heel command but I do not use that in relaxed walking situations.   Instead use "Walk"  to get a dog who has his head down sniffing or has stopped too long and you wish them to move on with you, as well as  "Easy"  with gentle tugs back on the leash when the dog is straining at the end of the lead.    There is always a place and time for heeling but a true heel is a difficult position to maintain and not something for a mile long walk.  If you have sidewalks in your area, walking your dog on them helps to maintain shorter nails.  Using the command "Sidewalk" when your dog is on it, then reenforce with "Good Sidewalk" helps them to know where it is proper place to walk.

Whenever you take your dog out of your yard, home, or car, you need to be situation ally aware.   Going to the vet, keep the lead short, not allowing the pet to "visit" with other animals who are in the waiting room.   In the park, unless leashes are not the law, keep the dogs on lead and away from playing children or picnicking families.    When walking, being aware of dogs in fenced yards and being prepared is an important tool.  On more than one occasion I have had a fence break open or a door swing open when a group of dogs, or just one dog, was excitedly leaping against it.   The animals charged mine and wanted to fight.  Seeing it from the dog who just got loose point of view, we were invading his turf by walking past the house.   There are not a lot of options in a full on dog fight so always be thinking ahead.   Same with children playing outdoors who may dart over to pet your dog.   Your dog may be very nice at home or if approached correctly, but startled by having a person, adult or child, charge at them, is disconcerting for an animal who may have a bit of protective instinct or insecurity about themselves.   Never make the mistake of believing YOUR dog won't be the one to bite.   I have had grown men charge me when I was walking my German Shepherd Dog in an effort to get the dog to bite them.   By being aware of your situation, environment and possible hazards you will soon condition you and your pets to have a wonderful and peaceful time together no matter where you roam. 

**The situation awareness information in this article gave me the idea to write the post and was graciously given by Rising StormClouds, who writes articles on http://risingstormclouds.blogspot.com/


                                                                          © PawEarFull Legacys